Storage Solutions

Overhead Poles

The single best improvement I made was to hang poles across the camper. They reinforce the side walls and provide great storage. My first attempts to support the poles - relying on tension and velcro - didn't work. The side walls are also too thin to support screws without drilling all the way through, something I didn't want to do. The beauty of the solution described below is that the weight of the poles and shelves hangs from the top of a horizontal surface, so it is quite strong.

Supplies

• (2) adjustable aluminum painter's extension poles
  
• (2) pair white plastic hangers for drop-in closet rods (u-end and o-end)
• (4) white rubber chair tips (2 each of 2 sizes) to fit both ends of the aluminum poles
• (4) small white rubber bumpers with recessed screw hole
• (4) 6-32 stop nuts
• (4) 6-32 acorn nuts
• (4) 6-32x1/2 machine screws, pan head
• (4) 6-32x3/8 machine screws, pan head
• (2) 1-1/8 x .54 x 1/8 flat nylon washers
• (8) 8x1/2 self-tapping metal screws
• 3' of 1x1/16 aluminum stock

Prep the poles by cutting off the threaded plastic and putting a chair tip on each end. Make pencil marks on the "A" side walls where you want the brackets - high enough for the poles to clear heads and doorway and low enough to accommodate a 4' shelf. With paper strips, make patterns for cutting the aluminum stock into 4 pieces that reach from each bracket location up to the edge of the "a" panel and across its width (inside to outside). Crease the paper to mark the angled bend. Cut the aluminum and bend it in a vice with a hammer.

Sink-side "A"

To fasten the pole brackets to the aluminum strips, press stop nuts into the bumper recesses. Use the 1/2" machine screws to go through the enter of the u-shaped closet hanger, through the aluminum strap, and into the stop nut on the other side. The bumper prevents the nut from marring the wall. For stability, add a second bumper to the strap, above the closet hanger. Drill 2 holes in the horizontal/bent/top part of the strap where it will screw to the aluminum edge of the "A". Use duct tape to hold the straps in place while you level them, and mark matching screw holes on the horizontal (inside-outside) edge of the "A". Two self-tapping screws hold each strap in place on the "A". 

Door-side "A"

Because this wall rests on the sink-side "A", there is not enough space between the 2 walls, when folded, for a stop nut. In this case, use the 3/8" machine screws to go from the back of the strap and into a stop nut INSIDE the o-shaped hanger (the rubber tips on the poles can accommodate the nut). To protect the wall from the screws, use contact cement to glue a nylon washer to the back of each strap, around the screw heads. Now the straps are thin enough for the A"A to fold down. Adjust and fasten the brackets just as you did on the sink side.

Adjust the pole lengths, and install them by putting the smaller end in the o-bracket and dropping the larger end in the u-bracket. If you've been careful about placing the brackets, the poles will be level and you can lay a 4' wire closet shelf across them at each end. If you put shoes or other dirty items on the shelves, use a piece of plastic carpet protector to catch the dirt For traveling, store poles and shelves on the bed. The poles are good for all sorts of things - hanging baskets, towels, hangers, etc - and they can support quite a bit of weight. Add white closet rod covers (use double-stick carpet tape), and the poles blend with the wallpaper.

Clothing Tubs

Clothing storage can be a problem, but we found tubs that just fit under the rear bed. Two taller tubs fit perfectly in the center, with room between then for a PVC pipe to support the edge of the bed. On the sides, we used 2 kitchen-type stackable baskets, with the lower lip to the outside to give a bit more air circulation around the converter and the A/C outlet. In the front of the camper, we used Rubbermaid stacking baskets for food and clothing - stored on the long dinette bench, or on the floor if the front bed is made up.

Laundry Hamper

Since we didn't have a sink-side access door to the rear hatch, the corner space behind the water tank was wasted. After I re-did the bed platform, I made a mesh bag to hang from cup hooks on the framing under that corner piece. That let us pull back the corner of the bed, lift the plywood and drop in our dirty clothes. It holds a good week's worth of laundry - out of sight and smell!

Shower Bags

Campground showers don't always have convenient shelves for shampoo, soap, razor, etc. We each kept those items in a zippered lingerie laundry bag (Dollar Tree) with a shoelace to hang it from the shower faucet. Back at the camper, we hung the bags to dry. We also used bath sponges instead of washcloths - they dry a lot faster.

Road Repair

On the way home from an early trip, we stopped to check what seemed to be a wheel heating up - and realized that all of our manuals were in a cabinet inside the camper. We also realized that we didn't have a list of dealers or RV repair places. The wheel turned out to be find, but the experience exposed our need to have roadside repair stuff more accessible. We organized a plastic envelope, with all of the manuals and instructions, and stored it inside the porta-potty cabinet, where we could reach it easily by opening the camper door. Less-used tools and equipment like the tire iron, jack, large wrenches, hammer, extension cord and battery charger we kept in the center of the front baggage compartment, where we could reach them through the exterior baggage door.

Setup Equipment for Campsite

We kept our basic setup equipment in the front baggage compartment Inside the passenger-side baggage door, we stored the stabilizer crank, the tire chock (velcroed to the frame), a lunx block for the tongue, and our detachable power cord. Inside the driver-side baggage door (added later, and a real asset), we had a

bin to hold all of our water supplies (hoses, filter, sponges, teflon tape, washers, sewer-hose cap in a sealed container). Between that bin and the door, our tongue-twister was velcroed to the floor. We also kept a small Roughneck tub inside the camper to old the polarity checker, electrical adapters, small bungees, TV cable, extra tire gauge, 8' utility extension cord, wind ropes, and extra rags. After setting up at the campsite, the Roughneck tub fit under the camper We kept our in-out thermometer sensor on the lid where it was out of the weather. Each baggage door had a rag velcroed to the back - where they were handy!

Mini Baskets

Three small Rubbermaid baskets stacked perfectly in the tall sink cabinet. They held (1) entertainment - DVDs, cards, games, TV cable; (2) batteries, fan hairdryer, extension cord; (3) tools. The top tool basket was filled only partway, so there was room to set a different basket inside it to serve as a wastebasket (dry stuff only). Five of the Rubbermaid baskets also fit nicely across the overhead kitchen shelf. Drawer knobs screwed to the front of each basket made them much easier to lift and move. A different kind of basket slid in the space underneath the furnace to hold baggies, plastic wrap, aluminum foil, and other odds and ends. 

Kitchen Storage

A many-years-old plastic cabinet, intended for use over a toilet tank made a perfect kitchen cabinet for cooking utensils. It fit next to the kitchen sink, on the picnic table, or hanging on the rack of our folding camp kitchen. A lipped drawer organizer with small items can hang on the back, the edged top was good for little items, and the side handles were handy for drying dishcloths. Our "hanging pantry" was really a closet shoe bag. The trim even coordinated with the upholstery. I often used 2 of them, shortened to fit.

Appliances 

A single electric hotplate came in handy. It was well-protected in an insulated lunch bag which stood behind the clothing tubs on the left front dinette bench. We also used a small crockpot and stored it in a basket in the rear baggage area. We carried a tiny Foreman grill, big enough for 2 hamburgers, and kept a 1-quart electric kettle on the overhead shelves. All with our appliances, we used a set of nesting stainless pans and a folding fry pan. The large kettle doubled as a dishpan. 

Food

We managed to keep all of our dry goods and condiments in a set of Rubbermaid stacking baskets in the dinette area. When we had the dinette made up as a bed, everything stored on the long bench fit on the floor underneath the table area.

Dishes

With storage space at a premium, we kept all our dishware in a rectangular plastic bucket in the dinette area. When we ate at a picnic table, it was easy to carry all the dishes outside, and we could even set the bucket on the ground if need by. Looking for lightweight square dishes, and bowls that were shallow enough to  stack compactly, was a long-term project. I couldn't resist the flag platters and watermelon plates (ourgrandsons' favorites!), especially since they were on a season-end clearance sale, and that set our patriotic theme.

The big white bowls (Dollar Tree) stacked well and were great for cereal, soup and stews, but I had trouble locating smaller bowls. I finally found the perfect thing in the Dollar Tree baby section  - sets of 3 feeding bowls with lids. We used them for fruit and dessert, as well as leftovers. The bucket, with all of our dishes, weighs just 8 lbs. Since everything was purchased at budget prices, I stocked a second bucket which we took when we camped with extended family.

Paper Towel Holder

Our paper-towel holder is a Dollar Tree model. Instead of mounting it permanently, I added white safety cup hooks to the back, securing them with plastic anchors. The towel holder just snaps onto the wire shelf. Easy to put up and take down.